Showing posts with label textiles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label textiles. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Stephan Schneider



Stephan Schneider (German born) designs clothes for both women and men but what I find most interesting is that he creates his own textiles for his garments. While most fashion designers use existing fabrics from various sources, Mr. Schneider spends much of his time designing his own. “I spend half of my time with the textile and half with the silhouette,” he says. “When your textile is strong, you don’t have to invent trousers with three legs.” His clothes shown above represents the his work since 2005. He uses the same fabric for both lines but isn’t going for a unisex look. When he uses the same fabric for the two lines he changes the design giving distinction between the women’s and men’s lines. His clothes captures a cool, but classic aesthetic with simple silhouettes with impeccable details. His garments are made in Belgium, where pieces are cut by hand and time can be spent on the finest finishing. He established his label in Antwerp immediately after graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1994.

Several years ago I serendipitously met Stephan in his Antwerp shop. Lucky for my husband and I he was sorting out a display. We learned first hand how passionate and knowledgeable about design he was. It makes complete sense that he is now a professor at
Universität der Künste, Berlin. It was quite refreshing that we found him mucking about in his store and he gladly stopped what he was doing to have a conversation with us. If you are ever in Antwerp his store located at 53 Reyndersstaat is a must see. It’s a small space and it shows off his clothes well. He displays both men and women together so you can see how the design plays out between the lines. The interior is minimal with just enough architectural details to make it inviting. On that trip and another trip a year or so later I bought several items which I continue to wear today. His pieces are some of my favorites.



Friday, December 4, 2009

Sheila Hicks—Weaving as Metaphor















Sheila Hicks’s miniatures have inspired me since I first laid eyes on them a few years ago when they were exhibited at the Bard Graduate Center in Manhattan. The remarkable weavings are colorful and compositionally dynamic. They are both 2 and 3-dimensional in form and some are assemblages made from found objects. For 50+ years Ms. Hicks has taken a small wooden frame around the globe to create notebook size weavings of the intimate kind. These pieces started when she was an art student at Yale. By her own estimate she has made more than 1000 of them. Ms. Hicks has referred to the miniatures as “personal expressions”, “private investigations” and also to lighten matters, “ramblings”. These pieces have informed her conceptual ideas, material explorations and large scale commissions. “I found my voice and my footing in my small work. It enabled me to build bridges between art, design, architecture, and decorative arts.” —Sheila Hicks, 2004

Check out the review of the show and interview with Ms. Hicks from The New York Times.

The show’s catalogue was designed by renowned Dutch book designer Irma Boom and is a noteworthy piece of design. The hefty deckle-edges give the book a handmade quality that refer to the subject poetically. It’s a book (415 pages) that begs to be held and touch. The book construction is mind boggling. I’m not sure how they achieved deckling the edges on all sides—top, bottom and sides. The book is printed in Holland by Drukkerij Rosbeek and is in it’s second printing. If you can find this book you should get it. Metropolis has an interview with Ms. Boom which she speaks about her design approach and the making of the Sheila Hicks’s book.