Rational Beauty

Q&A with Leslie Williamson

2012-01-27T13:39:00.000-08:00

What attracts me most to Leslie Williamson’s photography is the admiration and curiosity for her subjects captured in her work. She is well-known for her book Handcrafted Modern, a personal project that emerged from her passion for art and design. The concept is elegant in its simplicity: she photographs the homes of her favorite mid-century design heroes.

The book visits the dwellings of luminaries such as studio furniture makers Wharton Esherick, George Nakashima, and J.B. Blunk; industrial designers Eva Zeisel, Russel Wright, Jens Risom, Charles and Ray Eames; and even legendary architects Albert Frey and Walter Gropius. We get to peek into how these iconoclasts lived, helping broaden the definition of modernism. Leslie’s photograph of a red dress hanging in Walter Gropius’ house reveals a warm glow within the strong lines. We have Leslie to thank for giving us another perspective, and a new way to understand modernism.

Walter Gropius House from Handcrafted Modern

Professionally I have had the fortunate opportunity to work with Leslie on an article about Kay Sekimachi for American Craft magazine. Leslie’s photograph—a stunning still life showcasing Sekimachi’s jewelry that was made from shells and bones washed up by the sea—landed on the cover, and I couldn’t have been happier. It was my last issue as creative director and it was great to end on such a high note.

Without further ado, here’s my Q&A with Leslie.

Job description: Photographer, Writer, Blogger, Observer of the designed world, Wildly curious person. Best known for my book Handcrafted Modern: At Home with MidCentury Designers which started as a personal project of shooting my favorite design legends homes as they lived in them.

Why do you do what you do? Taking photographs has been the foremost way I figure out the world for over half my life, so at this point it doesn’t seem like there is a “why” in it. I couldn’t stop myself if I tried. I am very fortunate that I get to do what I love most for a living. In the last 5 years, through working on Handcrafted Modern and then moving on to my new projects and continuing to shoot more and more of my own ideas for others I have found an added joy in being able to talk and write about these places I shoot. It seems the marrying of my stories and images has added a deeper joy in what I do.

How do you break through a creative block? As a photographer, I don’t really have that problem very often (knock on wood). Ideas flow and I have gotten to the point where I know to trust my gut. On occasion I might get sidetracked somehow, but I catch myself pretty quickly. Sometimes my ideas are like a runaway train…I just hold on and go for it!

With writing it is a completely different thing. Writing is relatively new for me so my process is not as worked out. I have found that I need space around writing. I cannot shoot in the morning and write in the afternoon. So the most challenging “block” is finding the time and space to get to the mental space I need to be in. If I have trouble in the midst of writing I usually stop and dance a bit…lately to early Elvis Costello for some reason…Or I just go for a walk near some water—get away from the whole thing for a spell.

Education: Art Center College of Design, Pasadena, CA and Life…the best education of all if you pay attention!

Mentors: Paul Ender (my high school design teacher), Bill Stout (when I was working on my book he was really helpful and his bookstore is a haven for me. stoutbooks.com), Dung Ngo (my editor at Rizzoli, he is great at pushing me)…there are more I’m sure. Sometimes just one sentence from someone or a really good conversation can really push me to a new place with my work, thinking, etc.

Office chair: Most often it is the drivers seat of my old trusty RAV 4 or the rental car I happen to be driving. At my studio, an old Eames soft pad chair. It is from the late 70’s or early 80s and has the really great old leather, not like the ones now…I love that thing…

Office Soundtrack: This is SUCH an important question! Music is a key part of my life, since a lot of my time is traveling to and from places alone. Music is my travel companion and friend a lot of the time. And I also use music to manage my mood. So I have mixes for every possible mood and place—mixes for printing in the darkroom, for when I wake up, I even have a “happy” mix for when I am grouchy. And then there are the “Solid Gold” mixes which I do for myself but are rather popular with my friends. Lots of classic rock from all eras. It is a guaranteed dance party.

Download my “Happy” mix list.

Most useful tool: My eyes, heart, intuition, and imagination and of course a camera comes in very handy…preferably a Mamiya RZ67 and some film but I shoot with a PhaseOne 645 and Canon 5D as well.

Favorite space: Because I shoot spaces all the time I am constantly getting “crushes” on different places. I crush A LOT!

But my favorite spaces are ones that I get to spend more time in, that I repeatedly go back to. I love JB Blunk’s house for that reason (and many others). I originally shot it for Handcrafted Modern, but have continued to return and photograph all the artists at the artist residency there. So I have been back numerous times. Plus JB’s daughter, Mariah, is now a dear friend, so I go up and spend the afternoon and we weed the garden and make dinner. I just feel at home there and I love noticing all the little changes that occur in the house. It is a living, breathing thing.

The most sacred space for me is one that doesn’t exist anymore. My Grandmother’s house. Before we sold it (and it was subsequently torn down) I photographed it. That place is stitched into my soul. I can still hear the sound of the back door shutting in my head and it has been gone for quite awhile now. Someday that project will be a book.

What an extraordinary soft color palette Leslie found in her Grandmother's undergarment drawer.

Favorite design object: I have these two rocks that are covered in leather by a japanese artist (wish I had his name!). I love those two things so much…they are in the dish where I put my keys everyday.

Guilty Pleasure: I have none… I mean really…if it is a pleasure I think it should be embraced! Why feel guilty? Taylor Swift, Hallmark movies, little old men with dark socks and sandals? No guilt. Love them with abandon!

Underrated: Modesty—in people, in objects, in places…

Overrated: Bleu Cheese

What did you learn the hard way? To trust myself and my gut implicitly. A lot of detours taken to get to that all important one…but they were fun. or calamitous. or both.

Dream project: Just about to embark on that in the spring. I am photographing all the European Homes for Handcrafted Modern Europe as well as folding in all the European craftspeople for my project on the evolution of different craftsmen. Plus I am starting a new project as well…top secret! I cannot wait!!!

Where’s home? Home is where my heart is, so I feel most at home in San Francisco and New York where most of my dearest friends and family are. But if I am with someone I love—even if I just met them—I am home.

Wharton Esherick home & studio landed on the cover for Handcrafted Modern

JB Blunk’s House is one of Leslie’s favorite places that she continuously photographs at different times of the year.

The house was included in her book Handcrafted Modern.

Photographs from artist Jesse Schlesinger’s built environment installation in San Francisco.

Furniture designer Paul Loebach is a recent subject for Leslie’s current project about craftsmen.

Here’s a link to Leslie’s website.

Q&A with Tini Bloom

2011-12-14T15:33:00.000-08:00

Tini Bloom’s eccentric jewelry first caught my eye a few years ago at Bird, the Brooklyn clothing boutique. It’s stuck with me ever since. Her company moniker is Etten Eller, which means “either - or”, inspired by the Danish philosopher Søren Kierkegaard’s book Enten‒Eller. I read on a NBC blog that she intentionally changed the spelling. I especially adore that each piece is titled with a significant date and event, such as 08.27.1965: Le Corbusier dies while swimming in the Mediterranean off Cap Martin, or 02.18.1979: Snow falls in the Sahara desert. In this way, her jewelry becomes more than an object, it is a story or a memory. Visually her collections are delicate, yet strong and well crafted. Her exhaustive exploration in a scheme of metal discs, beads, and chains yields unending possibilities season after season.

I’m happy to kick off Rational Beauty’s Q&A series with Tini Bloom.

02.01.1884

The day the Oxford Dictionary debuted.

01.12.1963

The day Sam Cooke records Live at the Harlem Sq Night Club in Miami.

Job description: I design and produce a collection of jewelry.

Why do you do what you do? I think the motivation has changed and developed over time and continues to. My creative output however has always been a way for me to process the environment around me and the experiences I encounter. A visual diary of sorts. I ingest the world around me and digest it through my creative process and output. Its how I zero in on the details that interest me, the space in between, the moments that comprise my day and ultimately my life. I like to shed light upon the unexpectedly beautiful. To draw ones attention a little closer. Encourage one to slow down and move in a little closer to take notice and stock of the subtleties. With the jewelry I try to catch ones attention graphically and formally, intrigue one enough to make them stop and take notice and then once they come in a little closer they notice all these subtle details to the pieces.

How do you break through a creative block? Leaving the studio. Stimulating myself in the world and enjoying myself outside of the studio is probably the most helpful thing. Taking a break really. Doing something completely different. Feeding and informing myself in another way always proves to be the most beneficial to re-inspire me.

Education: I went to the School of the Art Institute in Chicago. While I knew I was attending a highly conceptual art school, heavy on theory, I was interested myself in developing skills to apply towards design for fashion, at the time it was textiles. The school had no core curriculum which allowed me to dip between departments developing, for example, color in the painting department, line in the print department, traditional textile practices in the fiber department, etc. All the while I was surrounded by interesting dialogues about art, which informed the way I viewed everything around me and ultimately developed my designs. I found this more important than just learning a straight skill.

Mentors: I find a mentor in pretty much everyone I encounter. Everyone has something of value to share and teach. I enjoy most about this work the opportunity to collaborate with different craftsmen and engineers.

What did you learn the hard way? Everything feels hard when you are unfamiliar with it, but then you learn and absorb it into your wealth of knowledge and each time the difficulties get a little easier because you understand it is the natural rhythm of the unknown. Learning is hard, but completely rewarding.

Most useful tool: My own two thumbs.

Favorite space: A large body of water. I like to be fully submerged with a open horizon line and expansive sky

Favorite design object: I don’t know if I would say favorite, but I think Apple does the most beautiful job with all their packaging.

Guilty Pleasure: Internet TV

Underrated: Living without the internet, I read a hell of a lot more when I chose to live without it for a year.

Overratted: The internet, too much information if you ask me. I often don’t even know where to go when i sit before a computer online. i prefer the more old fashion forms of discovery.

Dream project: To spend a year traveling and absorbing the world around me in various different places.

Where’s home? I’m not sure at present. I suppose wherever I am.

11.08.1895

German scientist discovers X-rays.

02.18.1979

Snow falls in the Sahara desert.

01.11.1813

The first pineapple is planted in Hawaii.

For more information: etten eller

Unravel: Knitwear in Fashion

2011-08-01T08:24:00.000-07:00

Tilda Swinton wearing four Sandra Backlund silhouettes photographed for
Another Magazine by Craig McDean.

It’s pretty simple—right? Drop one, pick up two, drop one. In knittings most basic form all you need is a pair of needles and a ball of yarn. Think again. Early summer I had the opportunity to see the “Unravel” exhibition at MOMU—Fashion Museum Province of Antwerp. The show helps re-brand knitting from old fashion to “uber-cool”.

Kaat Debo, director of MOMU, states in the show catalogue—“This exhibition does not intend to sketch an exhaustive history of knitwear, but aims to look beyond the stuffy image that may seem to attribute to it.” The exhibit has been curated by Karen Van Godtsenhoven (MOMU) and Emmanuelle Dirix (Winchester School of Art, Southhampton Universtiy and the Fashion Department of the Royal Academy of Antwerp. The examples presented range from ready-to-wear to haute couture encompassing both hand and machine knitted from established names to young emerging designers.

The highlight for me were the designers who hand-knitted the garments. The pieces show innovation with a bespoke stamp. The garments appear to emerge from knitting rather than patterns. I particularly feel this way about the work by Swedish Sandra Backlund. (top picture)

For those who would like to learn more, the exhibition catalogue by Emmanuelle Dirix takes a look at the history, production methods, social histories and the aesthetic (r)evolutions of knitwear in fashion.

After leaving the exhibit I wanted to pick up my needles, gets some yarn and start a project. Once the summer heat dies down I’m definitely going to make the Margiela military sock sweater since he offers up the instruction in the true spirit of making.

A tribute to Ann Salens’s multi-colored silk dresses. (1970-1975)

Christian Wijnants created the tie-dye dress for the exhibition.

He is a teacher, specializing in knitwear, at the Royal Academy for Fine Arts in Antwerp.

His work has been inspired by Ann Salens (above). Photography: Viviane Sassen

1910 - 1930s knitted swimsuits ranging from wool, jersey and

cotton became an icon for the modern era.

Bathing Suit by Elsa Schiaparelli, circa 1928 © Condé Nast Archive / Corbis

Dirk van Saene’s Petite and Heidi, two woolen jumpers with

knit trompe l’oeil motives. (2008-2009)

John Car Doughtly, 1966 © London College of Fashion

Woolen sweater made from military socks, Maison Martin Margiela, 1991-1992.

Photo Jacques Sonck

Martin Margiela instructions on how to make your very own woolen sweater from socks

published in A Magazine ( June 2004 ) curated by Maison Martin Margiela.

Installation “The Supermarket of Style” designed by Angelo Figus, art director and trend forecaster at Pitti Filati/Pitti Immagine, Florence. Originally the installation appeared in 2006 for the Italian Fashion fair Pitti Imaagine to predict fashion trends. He created a world that is all knitted ranging from status symbols like the fashion bags, Rietveld chair to groceries and washing machines. In 2006 ironically enough a real knitted Vuitton bag appeared. As stated in the catalogue that Figus chose knitwear because “it is an art, but also a science, almost like algebra, that gives rise to new formulas that lead to new results.”

Mind-boggling handknitted pieces from various designers from Yohji Yamamoto to

Sandra Backlund. My personal favorite of the exhibition.

Included in the exhibition was fashionable and historical hosiery.

Above shows hoisery by Bernhard Wilhelm from his women’s collection from 2007.

Photo by Carmen Freudenthal. Styled by Elle Verhagen

Knitted fishnet stockings by Jurgi Persoons, 1999. Photo by Ronald Stoops

Lou Dorfsman and the CBS Wall

2011-07-21T13:04:00.000-07:00

Lou Dorfsman (1918-October 22, 2008) is considered one of our graphic design greats. I don’t think many people would argue about that. At least from the research that I read. His designs are characterized by The New York Times as “clear typography, simple slogans and smart illustrations”. He sculpted and crafted the CBS brand (1946–1987) and was a big player in what I call the “golden age” of art direction. He oversaw all communications—ranging from print advertisements, annual reports, commemorative books to designing the sets for Walter Cronkite’s CBS Evening News. I think you get the picture. He had his eye on everything.

Dorfsman directed the wayfinding system, designed wall clocks, elevator buttons and even elevator inspection stickers to harmonize with the CBS Building designed by Eero Saarinen. The building is known as Black Rock because of the dark granite cladding and is considered a midcentury gem.

Dorfsman may be best known for the expansive wall (35 feet-wide x 8 1/2 feet-tall) for CBS’s cafeteria that he cleverly called “Gastrotypographicalassemblage”. The assemblage using a variety of hand-milled wood typefaces listed all of the food that the dining hall offered. The installation was completed by 1966 with the help from graphic design legend and friend Herb Lubalin, along with Tom Carnese whom skillfully crafted the typography.

Today I am inspired as if it was the first time I saw The Center for Design Study’s video about the “Gastrotypographicalassemblage” wall. It’s a piece of graphic design history from the 60s. The video is narrated by Dorfsman from a CBS interview. It’s quite lovely as he discusses the creation of the installation. It’s worth another look for those of you that have already seen it.

The Center for Design acquired the wall for preservation. As stated on their website “Unceremoniously abandoned in the late ’80’s, the walls 9 panels were salvaged by NY designer Nick Fasciano, however, time and storage has ravaged the monument leaving it in terrible disrepair.” If you would like to contribute to Dorfsman’s legacy please consider helping The Center for Design to restore a part of our graphic design history.

Wieki Somers

2011-06-07T05:44:00.000-07:00

A few Sundays ago I found myself standing in front of Weiki Somers’ very red “Chinese Stools—Made in China, Copied by Dutch” (2007) at the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam. I had seen them published in various publications (American Craft, New York Times’ T magazine, etc) but the impact of seeing them twinkling in lineup at full scale stopped me in my tracks. They are casted aluminum from stools that Somers acquired while taking residency in Beijing the summer of 2007. She became curious about the customized street stools and the daily life in the fast growing Beijing metropolis.

Somers explains on her site, “These ancient chairs were often barely recognizable, having undergone so many improvised repairs and modifications. I was struck by their many charming details, which connect the diverse materials and parts, and link them to their respective makers. The stools testify to a long history in which both the maker and the user have left their traces. When I started to purchase some of these stools, the neighbors noticed by admiration, and they all invited me to their homes, where I became acquainted with the many stories attached to them.

Finally I decided to cast a few stools in aluminum. The original stools vanished in the process, but in this way I could preserve their memory from the ravages of time and pay homage to their makers. The colours of the stools refer to the other side of Beijing (some would call it the modern side): the public display of prosperity and pride by putting sparkling extra layers on cars and products.”

A few rooms later I came across Somers’ “High Tea Pot” in “On the table” exhibit showcasing a collection of utensils and dishware from various designers expanding nearly 100 years. As stated on Somers’ website, “A porcelain pig’s scull is a teapot, the tea-cozy is made of rat’s fur.” She explains the piece is about were the ‘tasty and unsavory, harm and delight’ are inseparable and it is her intentions to make “you get curious how the tea actually tastes.” The object isn’t for looking only—the vessel can pour tea!

Somers graduated from Design Academy in Eindhoven in 2000. Her objects are produced mostly as limited productions and collaborates frequently with specialized artisans, ceramicists, etc. You can learn more about her work by clicking here.

The Hourglass by Marc Newson

2011-04-25T11:07:00.000-07:00

The Hourglass from Ikepod on Vimeo.

My friend Scott Newlin sent me this video showing the making of one of Marc Newson’s latest projects for Ikepod. The Australian designer revisits the design of the most memorable timepiece—the hourglass. The video is directed by Philip Andleman with music by Philip Glass. It’s stunning. The video documents the creation of the Newson’s hourglass inside the Glaskeller factory in Basel, Switzerland.

Chris Antemann

2011-04-15T11:04:00.000-07:00

Chris Antemann’s figural porcelain tableaux are naughty, resembling 18th-century French courtiers and housemaids cavorting with naked suitors. I start thinking of Marie Antoinette and her entourage prancing about Versailles. An homage to traditional European and Asian figurines (think Meissen, Staffordshire, Royal Delft) Antemann’s milieus are marked by flawlessly delicate craftsmanship and are about relationships between women and androgynous men giving the settings an erotic and emotional charge. This summer Antemann is setting up shop at Meissen, the three-hundred-year old venerable German porcelain factory to embark on making oversize mise-en-scènes. I can’t hardly wait.

Marloes ten Bhömer

2011-03-21T17:13:00.000-07:00

Marloes ten Bhömer innovative footwear combines clean lines, materials and construction techniques that are influenced by

design and architecture.

“Her works question our perception of functionality, fusing

art and technology to create an origami like production, working with materials ranging from wood to polyurethane resin,

tarpaulin, steel and fiberglass”, quoted from the Virtual Shoe

Museum.

Synesthesia / Directed by Terri Timely

2011-03-16T17:13:00.000-07:00

Synesthesia is a neurologically-based condition when one sensory stimulus triggers a different kind of sensation like seeing colors and shapes when you hear music or like smelling one thing when tasting another. What does a blueberry sound like?

This short film titled Synesthesia is directed by Bay Area Ian Kibbey and Corey Creasey whose moniker is Terri Timely. The two met whilst studying at Berkeley and have made over 25 videos to date. Synesthesia is a personal project. The short depicts an asian family during which each member of the family experience a different aspect of the condition.

The set design and wardrobe was influenced by the architecture and interior design of Ho Chi Minh City’s Reunification Palace (Vietnam).

Neues Museum / Photographs by Frederike Von Rauch

2010-07-16T19:19:00.000-07:00

A few months ago Mike and I were visiting Berlin to celebrate our dear friend, Susana’s birthday. One afternoon after the festivities had died down, we wandered over to the Neues Museum. Situated in the center of the Museum Island it is one impressive piece of architecture. The museum is one of the last big buildings in Berlin to be brought back to life. After World War II, the building had been a ruin; and it has reopened to contain the very same art, Berlin’s famous Egyptian collection, before it got bombed out.

Architect David Chipperfield can be credited for the conservation of the building. The process took ten years. In June 15, 2010 David Chipperfield Architects’ Neues Museum received the Grand Prix of the European Heritage Awards. The award highlights Europe’s best achievements preserving Europe’s rich architectural, landscape, archaeological and artistic heritage. The incorporation of modern architecture is so sensitive and considered that I can see why it took so many years. Each room reveals historical breaches while harmonizing them with the needs of a contemporary functioning museum. He preserved the Neoclassical lines while at the same time creating working modern spaces.

Included here are the photographs of Friedrike Von Rauch and her visual documentation of the building in the final stages. She captured moments of unbelievable beauty in the building. Through the photographs you can’t help imagine the building’s past and future which reveals the genius of Chipperfield’s plan.

Check out the book published by Hatje Cantz. It’s beautifully printed.

Bonnie Cashin

2010-03-06T08:48:00.000-08:00

Have you ever studied a person in a photograph and imagined that they must have had an exciting and marvelous life? When I look at pictures of Bonnie Cashin (1915-2000), Californian-born designer, that’s what comes to my mind. She looks like she is having fun even when she was working. I love her whimsical childhood drawings of the La La Girls. Legend has it helped her secure her first job as a costume designer.

In her day Cashin shunned Parisian couturiers that was widely accepted as the arbiters of global fashion. She created practical but stylish lightweight separates that could be layered and adapted to the modern woman’s lifestyle. Her clothes transitioned from season to season, city to country and day to night. Her pragmatic but stylish design popularized the notion that woman could be chic without sacrificing comfort. She is indeed a pioneer designer in creating ready-to-wear fashion. She is also known for turning Coach from a men’s wallet company to an innovative handbag company during the 60’s.

Her design approach and fresh aesthetics made her alluring for many companies. She freelanced for companies like American Airlines, Samsonite, Bergdorf Gooman, White Stag to Hermes.

Constantly globetrotting around the world she found inspiration in her travels. You see it in her designs and her home. This quote from Cashin sums it up nicely for me. “My interests are people and how they look. I remember the way a fisherman wore his shirt in Portofino—the odd chic of the beige and white starched habit of a little nun in Spain—the straw hat of a man riding a donkey in Rhodes—a man’s wedding scarf in India—the elegant drape of a panung in Bangkok.”

Vasconcelos Library in Mexico City

2010-03-03T13:55:00.000-08:00

Every architect I know would love to design a library, the modern temple of knowledge. It’s a demanding and prestigious project. One of my favorites is the Vasconcelos Library in Mexico City. Winners of an open competition which elicited 590 proposals were Alberto Kalach, Juan Palomar, Gustavo Lipkau and Tonatiuh Martinez.

I’m drawn to how the books are distributed in large metal cages that hang from the five levels of the building and appear like floating clouds of knowledge above the long reading hall. The Library includes a music room and an auditorium that seats 520 people. A botanical garden with vegetation characteristic of the Valley of Mexico surrounds and protects the building from noise and creates a more intimate environment in the reading rooms.

Check out this interview with Alberto Kalach by Jose Castillo for Bomb magazine. Click.

The photography is by Tomas Casademunt.

Alexis Georgacopoulos

2010-02-16T21:28:00.000-08:00

The “Blow” bowls caught my attention with its colorful rope handles and hand blown bowls. Maybe with some hope and hinting these vessels will find a place on our dining table. Part of a set of three the bowls are designed and completed in 2008 by Alexis Georgacopoulos who currently lives in Lausanne. The noticeable tension between the hard and soft materials makes this project edgy and playful.

When you get some time I encourage you to visit his site. I’m also including an exhibition project for the Swiss Federal Design Awards at the mudac in Lausanne. The variety of work ranging from graphic design, photography, fashion, etc. is presented in a collection of wooden frames. The size of the wooden structures changes shapes depending on the subject matter.

Polderceramics by Atelier NL

2010-02-04T15:28:00.000-08:00

2008 / Project Drawn from Clay—Noordoostpolder
The Dutch have a long history of reclamation of marshes and fenland resulting in 3000 polders nationwide. A polder is a low-lying tract of land enclosed by embankments known as dikes which means that the land has no connection with outside water. The English have a saying “God created the world, but the Dutch created Holland”. The Noordoostpolder is the largest land area in the Netherlands and was made to create additional land for agriculture and of course to improve flood protection.

Atelier NL, the Eindhoven-based design studio of Lonny van Ryswyck and Nadine Sterk took up residence in the area to better study the social and agricultural perceptions within the region. The Drawn From Clay series captures these local distinctions as each piece is made from a specific plot of soil taken from various farms across the 285 miles square polder.

“We wanted to make tableware so that the vegetables prepared for dinner could be served from vessels made from the same soil the vegetables came out of,” explains Ryswyck on their site.

Each form was cast-molded at a consistent temperature in order to compare the differences between color and texture from the various soils. The designers cleverly devised a ratio system for determining the size of each piece and stamped each vessel with a geo-code reference to match the plot from where the soil came from.

The project is beautifully photographed by Paul Scala.

Lola Brooks / Photography by Tatsuro Nishimura

2010-01-20T14:50:00.000-08:00

Late November I had the distinct pleasure to meet jeweler/artist Lola Brooks at a photoshoot for an article in the February/March issue of American Craft magazine (please check out Mimi Luse’s story on Brooks). American Craft can be found at Barnes and Noble and/or at the MAD bookstore.

A visiting assistant professor at the Rhode Island School of Design, Brooks is represented by Sienna Gallery in Lenox, MA, and her work is in the collection of both the Museum of Arts and Design and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Lola creates exquisite jewelry around the subject of romance and the tropes of love. She mixes up her material combining vintage jewelry such as the ivory roses with new gems and metals. Her compositions are layered with this spirit that there are never enough roses, bows and such in her pieces! The work shown here are brooches. However she does makes necklaces, rings etc. You can see more of Lola’s range on Sienna’s site not to mention other noteworthy jewelers.

The photographs are by the very talented Tatsuro Nishimura. I always enjoy collaborating with Tatsuro. It was a memorable afternoon.

Chris Mottalini

2010-01-17T13:33:00.000-08:00

The Rock of the Month Club
The genesis for these pictures comes from photographer, Chris Mottalini, subscribing to a mineral club in which he started receiving monthly different rocks from around the world. On his site he says, “I photographed these rocks in various “natural” settings, occasionally introducing foreign elements (packaging materials, etc.) in order to highlight the constructed realism/manipulations of the photographs.”

These exotic minerals are transported from all parts of the globe (like India, Morocco Brazil, etc.) to a new photographic existence in a manipulated natural world.

I’m also a big fan of his “after you left, they took it apart (demolished paul rudolph homes)” series where he photographs a handful of homes by acclaimed architect Paul Rudolph days before they are demolished. The photographs capture the grace of these architectural gems even in the state of abandonment and neglect.

One of a Kind Show, NYC

2009-12-22T15:20:00.000-08:00

A couple of weeks ago after eating a hearty brunch at Rose Water my husband, Mike, and I hopped on the subway to check out the handicraft at the “One of a Kind Show” located at Pier 94 ( 12th Ave and 55th street). We were hoping to pick up a few holiday gifts and we had a lot to choose from. The show included a wide range of makers working in ceramics, clothing, fashion accessories, fiber art, furniture, metal, jewelry, etc. Here are some of my favorites.

Pip-Squeak Chapeau makes you wish for a cold day with their lovely hand knitted collection from alpaca yarn. The fleece is soft and gentle and is incredibly warm. Alpaca’s are from llamas and have kept people warm and comfortable for centuries even on the coldest days. The biker mittens, part mitten /part glove, let’s you have the best of both worlds — warmth of a mitten plus the use of your thumb and pointing finger for getting your subway pass out, etc. The pieces are made in Brooklyn. They also make dresses, skirts, shirts from 100% natural yarns and fabrics such as linen, cotton, hemp, wool, silk and mohair.

The Cordwainer Shop have been making hand crafted beautiful shoes using the finest leather, free of synthetic materials and toxic glues since the 1930’s. The shoes are fully lined and hand sewn, making them lightweight, flexible and resole-able year after year. These shoots fit! Feet are carefully measured and made in your choice of leather and style. The family owned operation runs out of Deerfield, New Hampshire and offer workshops for those who would like to learn more about the making of shoes. “Cordwainer” means shoemaker and was coined by boot makers from Spain. What an appropriate name! Look for an article about the Cordwainer Shop in the Feb/March 2010 issue of American Craft magazine.

Sang Joon Park interest in pottery started as a young man living in Korea and became an apprentice to a master Korean potter, Na Woon Chae. “He told me in order to become a potter I must be able to make at least 30 identical bowls within the period of a single hour. Countless days full of failures ensued. Then suddenly one day Mr. Na announced I had become a potter. Since that day I have continued to make thousands of bowls and I dreamt of becoming a real artist” as stated on Park’s website. He later attended Pratt Institute for an MFA in ceramic sculpture. The random but yet calculated repetition of the bowls and use of simple colors makes his work sculptural.

David Nerwen uses a variety of complex hand stitching techniques with 100% tapestry wool yarn on canvas to create his abstract geometric compositions. “For the past 37 years I have designed and executed original hand stitched abstract and geometric tapestries on canvas. It has been a labor of love and very challenging to design in spite of the restrictive medium of fiber art” states Nerwen on his website.

Jean Pelle’s stunning Bubble Chandeliers are comprised of delicate clusters of handblown glass balls and clear globe bulbs held together by cables wrapped in cotton twine. Macrame and bubbles what more can one ask for? The chandeliers are a nice blend of nautical-hippy and modern design. The configurations come is a variety shapes and sizes and individually assembled by Pelle in her Brooklyn studio. Pelle studied architecture at UC Berkeley and Yale. In addition to her chandelier she applies her design skills by making diverse objects like candle holders and necklaces. Very nice indeed!

Stephan Schneider

2009-12-08T11:30:00.000-08:00

Stephan Schneider (German born) designs clothes for both women and men but what I find most interesting is that he creates his own textiles for his garments. While most fashion designers use existing fabrics from various sources, Mr. Schneider spends much of his time designing his own. “I spend half of my time with the textile and half with the silhouette,” he says. “When your textile is strong, you don’t have to invent trousers with three legs.” His clothes shown above represents the his work since 2005. He uses the same fabric for both lines but isn’t going for a unisex look. When he uses the same fabric for the two lines he changes the design giving distinction between the women’s and men’s lines. His clothes captures a cool, but classic aesthetic with simple silhouettes with impeccable details. His garments are made in Belgium, where pieces are cut by hand and time can be spent on the finest finishing. He established his label in Antwerp immediately after graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1994.

Several years ago I serendipitously met Stephan in his Antwerp shop. Lucky for my husband and I he was sorting out a display. We learned first hand how passionate and knowledgeable about design he was. It makes complete sense that he is now a professor at Universität der Künste, Berlin. It was quite refreshing that we found him mucking about in his store and he gladly stopped what he was doing to have a conversation with us. If you are ever in Antwerp his store located at 53 Reyndersstaat is a must see. It’s a small space and it shows off his clothes well. He displays both men and women together so you can see how the design plays out between the lines. The interior is minimal with just enough architectural details to make it inviting. On that trip and another trip a year or so later I bought several items which I continue to wear today. His pieces are some of my favorites.

Sheila Hicks—Weaving as Metaphor

2009-12-04T17:49:00.000-08:00

Sheila Hicks’s miniatures have inspired me since I first laid eyes on them a few years ago when they were exhibited at the Bard Graduate Center in Manhattan. The remarkable weavings are colorful and compositionally dynamic. They are both 2 and 3-dimensional in form and some are assemblages made from found objects. For 50+ years Ms. Hicks has taken a small wooden frame around the globe to create notebook size weavings of the intimate kind. These pieces started when she was an art student at Yale. By her own estimate she has made more than 1000 of them. Ms. Hicks has referred to the miniatures as “personal expressions”, “private investigations” and also to lighten matters, “ramblings”. These pieces have informed her conceptual ideas, material explorations and large scale commissions. “I found my voice and my footing in my small work. It enabled me to build bridges between art, design, architecture, and decorative arts.” —Sheila Hicks, 2004

Check out the review of the show and interview with Ms. Hicks from The New York Times.

The show’s catalogue was designed by renowned Dutch book designer Irma Boom and is a noteworthy piece of design. The hefty deckle-edges give the book a handmade quality that refer to the subject poetically. It’s a book (415 pages) that begs to be held and touch. The book construction is mind boggling. I’m not sure how they achieved deckling the edges on all sides—top, bottom and sides. The book is printed in Holland by Drukkerij Rosbeek and is in it’s second printing. If you can find this book you should get it. Metropolis has an interview with Ms. Boom which she speaks about her design approach and the making of the Sheila Hicks’s book.

Studio GORM

2009-11-22T08:57:00.000-08:00

Studio GORM is a collaboration between John Arndt and Wonhee Jeong. They met while studying for their masters at the Design Academy Eindhoven. Their office is currently located in Eugene Oregon and are teachers in the product design program at the University of Oregon. Lucky students!

Shown here are two projects: “Flow and the kitchen of terrestrial mechanics” and “Peg”.

The “flow and the kitchen of terrestrial mechanics” project unites nature and technology to efficiently utilize energy, waste, water and other natural resources in a cyclical transformation. This isn’t just a pretty kitchen. Beyond being a place to prepare food the intention is to shed light on how a natural process works, where food is grown, stored, cooked and composted to grow more food. For example the water from the dish rack drips on the plants, which are grown in the planter boxes. The counter top features a built in waste receptacle which dumps the scraps easily during food preparation. Once the receptacle is full it only needs to be tipped to transfer the wasted into the worm bin composter. Yes worms!! This isn’t for the weak at heart. The worms convert the debris into nutrient rich fertilizer which can be put back into the soil to help abundant plant growth.

The flexible furniture system called “peg” with it’s interactive spirit inspires multiple scenarios. The project takes it’s inspiration from a eclectic sources such as the shaker peg rail, the Korean wall hung table, the tinker toy and the lowly shop broom. The mix of materials are unexpected with the combination of laminated chipboard, douglas fir and upholstery. It feels relevant. The storage system is a work of art as it hangs comfortably on the wall. A space could be transformed easily depending on the activity. So smart.

Go to their site and check out their work. I like the shed/shelf and the platform bed projects. Consistently strong. Click.

DTL Fleischmann

2009-11-20T09:40:00.000-08:00

DTL Fleischmann is a revival of the eccentric Baroque typefaces cut by Johann Michael Fleischmann in the 18th century. The digital DTL Fleischman was created by Erhard Kaiser, a German designer for the Dutch Type Library. The robust typeface consists of text and display cuts making the font incredibly flexible for editorial design. The font features attention-getting ornate serifs and a large selection of ligatures that gives it’s characteristic form. In 2007 I selected Fleischmann to use exclusively in the redesign of American Craft magazine. Two years later I still enjoy working with Fleischmann as much I did in the first issues. It’s beautifully crafted and it can handle all of the typographical detailing that the magazine needs. What else can one ask for?

TAF Architect’s Gabriella Gustafsson and Mattias Ståhlbom

2009-11-17T08:55:00.000-08:00

Swedish architecture firm TAF could be described as minimal with a eye for craftsmanship. They find inspiration from simple materials and translate those materials into storytelling experiences. There is always a nod to the handmade which makes it intriguing for me even if it’s machine made. For example in the cuckoo clock project, I like the contradiction and playfulness between the bird’s crude woodwork execution in contrast to it’s refine minimal powder-coated metal house.

To learn more about the talented duo I found an article about TAF on Icon Magazine online.

Estelle Hanania

2009-11-13T16:16:00.000-08:00

A couple of weeks ago I had the pleasure of meeting French photographer Estelle Hanania. We were fascinated by the stories she chooses to tell with her pictures. One series called the “Demoniac Babble” captures a yearly pagan ritual in Switzerland where a group of men roam from farm to farm, singing and drinking in celebration for winter and to frighten the bad spirits away. For months men create their demonic outfits. At first glance in these images, the men appear to be plant-like sculptures but upon closer inspection you realize that they are humans dressed in these outlandish earthly costumes.

She also has an eye for fashion. I’m including some images of her latest catalogue for Urban Outfitters. They really elevated their look with this catalogue. It’s more minimal and sophisticated.

Dan Funderburgh

2009-11-10T14:58:00.000-08:00

Dan Funderburgh sneaks dark humor into his hyper stylized wallpapers by combining traditional pattern motifs with contemporary urban experiences. His designs tell stories. The work appears pleasant from a distance and edgier upon closer inspection. In the wittily titled Elysian Fields (bottom image) he amuses us with Venus flytraps, bats and bones instead of a idyllic fantasy as the title would suggest.

Flavor Papers, a New Orleans/Brooklyn-based wall paper shop, carefully hand-screens his designs. They are indeed a work of art! Mr Funderburgh’s work can be found in the collection of the Cooper-Hewitt Design Museum and the Miami Museum of Art.

Astrid Dahl

2009-11-09T15:04:00.000-08:00

From time to time I pop into Amaridian to admire Astrid Dahl’s plantlike vessels.

“The natural white of this clay quite simply, works for me. We are really down to ‘truth to material’ and I love that this honesty is reflected in that it is ‘hand made’.

We as humans have always looked to nature for inspiration and I don’t think we should ever stop! I love to take a closer look, particularly at plants, as their forms are just incredible in design. Design which, knowing the nature of clay, is certainly challenging logistically, makes the process all the more exciting. In essence, the flowers are a springboard for an abundant source of inspiration.

Because of the relative ‘softness’ of clay, I am able to spend hours sanding, creating ultra fine edges, sharp points and the silky feel which contributes hugely to the overall affect. Although it can have heart palpitating moments, I find it a calming medium to be working in. Clay has a language of its own, combined with hands; there is a union of these two entities.” —Astrid Dahl

Topsy-Turvy Planters

2009-11-07T14:11:00.000-08:00

Bosskke intends to transform the way people enjoy plants in their living environments with the Sky Planter designed by Patrick Morris. No longer satisfied by the plant pot stuck in the corner Morris has literally elevated them into stunning compositional elements in your interior.

Patrick Morris leapt into his career by winning the UK New Designers Award for Ceramic Design, shortly after graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design.

Go to this web page and see the video on how it works. It looks simple enough but I do wonder if the dirt will fall onto the floor. It's refreshing to see a designer thinking about bringing nature into an interior space in a distinctive way.

Wolfgang Weingart

2009-11-05T06:32:00.000-08:00

Wolfgang Weingart (born 1941 in the Salem Valley, Germany, near the Swiss border) never gets old for me. His graphic design and typography is inspirational, timeless and distinct. He is considered by some as the “father” of New Wave or Swiss Punk Typography.

Many years ago I had the privilege to meet and study with him while attending the Yale Summer Program in Graphic Design in Brissago, Switzerland led by Armin Hofmann. That summer was a design experience that I continue to think about and appreciate to this day. (one day I'll share my work from that summer if I can find it)

According to Weingart, “I took ‘Swiss Typography’ as my starting point, but then I blew it apart, never forcing any style upon my students. I never intended to create a ‘style’. It just happened that the students picked up—and misinterpreted—a so-called ‘Weingart style’ and spread it around.” (Poynor, Rick. Eye, No. 4, Vol. 1, 1994, pp. 8–16.)

Alexander Girard, wooden dolls

2009-11-03T11:40:00.000-08:00

All week I struggled on what my Halloween costume would be and luckily my friend Scott Newlin came to my rescue. On his lunch break, Scott strolled by the Vitra Showroom and saw Alexander Girard’s colorful wooden dolls and suggested that a group of us attempt to create the partly delightful, partly ghastly company of dolls. I was completely game and relieved that I finally had a plan. Scott, his girlfriend Emily CM Anderson, my husband Mike Abbink made a date to create our costumes.

Originally Girard created and made the Wooden Dolls (1963) for his home in Santa Fe. The dolls that are in production today are based on the originals found in the Girard Estate held by Vitra Design Museum. Girard managed to inject an uninhibited use of color and a clever playfulness into modernism. He took inspiration from countries like Mexico and India where a tradition of handicraft still thrived, their processes, motifs and colors not yet threatened by an industrial culture. He made modernism fun! He is most noted for his textile treatments for Knoll that could be characterized by lyrical pattern making and bold colors.

We did make it to the Halloween shindig hosted by the incredibly gracious Mike Perry and Anna Wolf. Much fun was to be had. To see more of Anna’s Halloween pictures from the merry soirée. Here.

Stig Lindberg in Craft Horizons, 1954

2009-11-02T08:46:00.000-08:00

In the October 1954 issue of Craft Horizons Arthur Hald, son of famed Orrefors Glass director Edward Hald, explored the life of Swedish ceramist Stig Lindberg, describing him as “one of the most convincing examples of design in our times.” The spirited, incisive piece provides a window into Lindberg’s personality, vision and versatility at the age of 38, while he was art director at Stockholm’s Gustavsberg Porcelain Factory.

To download the article. Here.

Stig Lindberg

2009-10-30T10:01:00.000-07:00

My fascination with Stig Lindberg began when my husband, Mike gave me a lovely piece from the Reptil collection for Valentine’s Day.

Stig Lindberg (Sweden, 1916-1982) created whimsical studio ceramics and graceful tableware lines during a long career with the Gustavsberg factory in Sweden. He achieved recognition for his eccentric forms and whimsical decoration.

I have collected most of my pieces from ebay. My collection is from the Reptil, Veckla, Pungo, Faience and Domino series.